Tuesday, 25 August 2015

Final Blog - 3 weeks later

August 25, 2015 – Final Entry

Well it is 3 weeks later and time to close this blog. We have settled into marina living again, where it is secure and protected. We chose to leave the boat at Bay Port marina in Midland, as we have some work to do on the boat before we put it to bed for the winter. Bay Port offers pretty well all the services we required such as a marine store, hydro, water, fuel, pump outs, swimming pool, secure winter storage, lift in and out, blocking etc. Although about 35 minutes from Barrie, we are in a great sailing community with ample anchorage opportunities that are not available in Lake Simcoe. The marina has over 500 slips, is about a half mile across the bay (dingy accessible) to downtown Midland for shopping, restaurants and coffee shops. We are very familiar with the area having a family cottage for 50 years on Methodist Island, just off Victoria Harbour. My son lives in Waubaushene and we have already linked up a couple of times on the water with some of the grand children already. There are surprisingly few live a boards in the marina. The marina is quiet during the weekdays and gets busier on the weekend. The great thing is that we see a boaters actually using their boats, rather than staying at the docks. There is a mad exodus of boaters on Thursday and Friday as they head out to their favorite anchorages for the weekend. We see them return on Sunday night as they make the trek home, some fighting the weekend traffic south. The life of retirement allows me to avoid this trek, however I was caught up with this ritual for 20 odd years as we took the kids up and down from the family cottage. Indulgence is one of the mid sized boats in the marina, with many much bigger, particularly the big cabin cruisers. We have met a few boaters that used to boat out of Barrie, as well as several other boats we saw during our trip up from Lake Erie and Huron. We were fortunate to return to this area about 2 weeks sooner than expected and as such were here to see our newest crew member born on August 3rd… Caleb James Harold Ewles born to my son and partner Jenn. That brings my motley grandchild crew up to 9. We have told the family that we will be staying on the boat, using it as much as we can until September, when we will start to transition back home and acclimatize to life on the hard for the winter. The admiral isn’t looking forward to this, but such is life. We already have the requests coming in as to what we are doing on such and such a date, can we help out… can we sit for the grand kids and dogs, borrow the car… our calendar is filling up with these requests as well as appointments and commitments we know are coming as a consequence of being home. It occurred to us, as to how everyone survives when we are not around, we also wonder if we accept these requests as something to keep us busy, were we truly missed? Or are we just filling our time up until we set sail on our next adventure? All joking aside, the admiral and myself, did truly miss everyone, and are glad to be home. We certainly could not have done this journey without the support of our family and friends, who kept us grounded. One other note that I would be remiss in mentioning, the Admiral and I celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary 2 days ago… for those who made it this far, that’s the ruby one. Well this last year was our celebration of a life together. We decided, that as we had some major expenses coming up with the boat, we just went out for a quiet dinner at a local restaurant. It truly has been alifetime adventure, sharing with Jo, all the ups and down life and family throws at you. These past 40 years have sort of been the practice or training time, to ensure we were prepared to try something like taking a “slow boat to Florida” and then turn around and return. Over the past 11 months we sailed/motored over 5500 miles, at less than 6 miles an hour. Like life, there were highlights and lowlights along the way. As you may recall, I started this blog with an excerpt from my blog in 2010, when we sailed down the St Laurence River to Montreal. This was our first taste of adventuring on a boat. Some of my objectives were a) Come home with my boat b) Come home with my wife c) Come home with my wife and boat d) Get a bigger boat On the journey south, we had 3 objectives a) Take the boat south b) See if we could live on the boat for 4-6 months c) Bring the boat home. Well, we have the boat home and the Admiral is still with me, so all said and done, it was a successful Journey. We took our Dream to Reality. The past year, saw us do many things well and some not so well. We soon realized that our skills were not all that great, but we were persistent in trying to make them better. Our trip back to Canada was so much different than our trip going down. Had the trip down, been anything like the trip back … mechanical and weather issues, we very well may have been one of those couples you hear about, who have the dream and when faced with some adversary, their relationship gets challenged and they end up ending their dream and selling their boat. Fortunately we had a relatively safe trip down in the fall and our weather and mechanical challenges were small. As for the trip back, the issue with our coolant leak, the anti -foul chipping off our hull, several severe storms and squalls, extreme heat, being towed twice, electrical shorts, stuck on shoals… We both took these in our stride, maybe because we were a bit more relaxed and had some experience under our belt. The situations we faced were certainly of concern for us and we understand that you cannot take anything for granted when on the water. Here is my list of things I will not miss for a while -travelling in 100 degree temperatures (8 days in a row) – 80 plus degree temps in the evening with no A/C - being chased into the cabin at 7pm because the flys and mosquitos and the notorious no-see-ums come out. (particularly in 80 plus degree temps makes it hard to be comfortable and yet stay in happy mood the next day -constantly watching for, and running storms (hail and torrential downpours), high winds and flooding waters – tornado and hurricane notices and plans to avoid same - constant beeping of the shallow water alarm . Beeping alerts us when we in water under 9 feet (actually less than 5 feet under our keel) This alarm would go off continually some days and would require to be reset every 30 seconds for hours on end. Our index fingers actually got sore from the constant pushing of the rest button - Constant noise of a diesel engine 8-10 hours a day. The noise starts to affect your hearing as you are yelling at each other to hear one another. Maybe subconsciously we were just practicing our “selective” hearing so when we get really old, we have this selective hearing down to a real art form. -running up on shoals and being grounded -rely on BOATUS to tow me to safety. All joking aside, the above is just what goes with the territory We have a lot to do on the boat over the next several months such as re finishing the hull (epoxy coat and anti-foul0, fix our coolant leak ( it actually ended up that the core of the heat exchanger had corroded and the unit is being replaced as we speak, need to make some weather screens for the cockpit. The Admiral would like a full enclosure, but a full enclosure is nice but not necessary in 80 plus degree weather down south, explore installing more solar or wind generating power devices. THE FUTURE As you may recall, in one of my blogs in February, I wasn’t quite sure whether this was a once in a lifetime trip or whether I would do it again. Somewhere between Indiantown and Norfolk, Va, it became apparent that we both want to do it again. We are gearing up for another adventure in august 2016. We think we want to be “LOOPERS” don’t take that to mean loopy. A Looper is a boater that travels down the Great lakes to Chicago, then picks up a route south via the Mississippi or the Illinois River, or the Tenn.-Thom through to Mobile, Alabama , then down the Florida Gulf Coast to the Keys, then back up the Atlantic coast to Canada. We have done the latter part of this, so I proud to say I am only half looped. This of course depends on the stars aligning themselves again… kids, grandkids and parents are well, financially we can afford it, boat is ready and we are still raring to go. As we are still relatively young, our kids would question that, we can postpone if necessary. The opportunities once we get down there are a bit broader as I now have some experience and skills and am interested in heading to the islands or the Bahamas and would consider leaving the boat down there for 6 month. We will see. Well it’s time to wrap this journey up and I thank those that supported us and those of our family and friends that shared in this blog and helping me bring the DREAM TO REALITY. I say adieu, actually I should keep with my regular closing CIAO for now

Admiral Jo & Captain Tom


Thursday, 6 August 2015

Tobermory - Midland July 29- Aug 1 ---HOME

 

 
Last few days we have had severe wind warnings with sections of waves 4-6 Ft. The last 129 miles took us through Georgian Bay via Lion's Head, Collingwood then Midland.
The high winds 15- 18 knots with gusts up to 25 were not too bad as we had a beam reach and fortunately the waves were traveling in the same direction. We crossed Georgian Bay to Collingwood in 8 hours ( 56 miles of open water). Not too shabby.
We met Jo's parents in Collingwood and able to get laundry and shopping done, as well as spend some time with them. It did rain a little later in the day, but all was fine with us.
We left Collingwood for Midland Bay Sailing Club, where I was fortunate to get 2 free days at a slip, through a friend. Coming out of Collingwood across the open bay was quite rough for a couple of hours with 20knot winds and 6'waves. Once in the lee of Christian Island, Beckwith, Giant's Tomb and Bastille things quieted down significantly.
This last week saw us staying at Marinas as there was not a lot of available anchorage. We are now at Bay Port Marina in Midland, where we will be staying the balance of the season.

HOME after 66 days (leaving May 28 from Indiantown, Fl.), 2568 miles and 409 engine hours

The girls brought us our car on Aug 2, giving us some mobility. We slipped down to Barrie , to drop some stuff home, and pick up the Martell at Kempenfest. We saw the kids quickly and were able to get down to Orillia to see our new grandson Caleb James, born Aug 3.
Life keeps rolling on with or without us, but I'm sure glad that we had the chance to end this journey the way we started.... one day at a time and loving each moment of it.

I'm going to take a few weeks to let this last 11 months sink in before I post my summary.

Ciao for now

Detroit

Blue Mountain

Collinwood

Giant's Tomb

Caleb James Ewles (Aug 3/15)

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Lake Erie-Lake St Clair- Lake Huron July21-28

Well we're motor/sailing right along. We are now in Georgian Bay (Tobermory) and close to the end of this Journey. We have about 100 miles to go and we will be in Midland or Penetanguishene, where we will stay for the balance of the season, as we have some work to do on the hull. It doesn't make much sense taking the mast down and taking Indulgence to Barrie to return to the Midland area in a month.

This being said, I'll pick up where we last left off.
In Port Stanley, on Lake Erie, we finally picked up some NW winds, giving us a beam reach. We made some great speed and covered a lot of miles. From there we entered the Detroit River heading upstream and fighting the 1.5-2 knot current coming down from Lake Huron through the St Clair River and Lake St Clair. The toughest spot was when we were coming under the Ambassador Bridge. We pulled back so we could let 2 Lakers/freighters go under the bridge before us... no way I was going through with these monsters.  For the next 3 miles we fought the waves created by these ships. The river has break walls on both banks so the waves just continued to go from one side of the river to the other. This with the downstream current, we didn't get too far too fast.
There is about 80 miles to travel between Lake Erie an Huron and at speeds of about 3.5- 5 knots this section took about 2 and a half days. There was more Laker/freighter/barge activity on this river than we saw in the St Lawrence when we came down.
One point of interest, is that we have never seen so many swans in one river in our life. Just south of Detroit there must have been around 100 swans..
Another interesting point was when we were entering Lake Huron in Sarnia, the current under the Blue water International Bridge was between 5-6 knots. We had to rev the engine at 2400 RPM and even still there was a section when we were only doing 1.5 speed forward. This section only lasted about 5 minutes,  but here's where I wished I had a "Hunter (ouch)" and its oversized power plant to push us through.
Lake Huron
Lake Huron runs North and South and the current although not significant, the prevailing winds were south west and the water flow runs north to south. Lake Huron is 170 miles to where we are going to pick up Georgian Bay.  There are very few (natural ) anchorage on the east shore of Huron so we've had to rely on Marinas. First we hit Bayfield ( crafts, arts, inns, restaurants), then Kincardine ( Scottish settlement, beaches, sunsets, bagpipes). Nightly in the summer months a bagpiper pipes the sun down from the top of the lighthouse, there is more to this story but suffice to say, it sure draws a crowd. Then we stayed at Port Elgin, the largest town in  Bruce County. In between we passed by the Douglas Point Nuclear Station.'
Lake Huron boasts some of the greatest beaches (water was cold mind you) and according to the locals some of the most beautiful sunsets. As well the east shore of Lake Huron is peppered with hundreds of wind Generating turbines.
We are now in Tobermory, home of the CheCheman, the ferry boat to Manitoulin Island. This is one busy town with scuba and snorkeling tour boats, ship wrecks, Flowerpot island, glass bottom tour boats. A village built around tourism. One thing to note from our experience, it is one of the few locations we docked at, that the food store and LLBO were at the dock area, not 1-2 miles outside of town.
I will note that all the marina fees ranged between $1.00 and $1.80/ft. Most did not charge for pump-outs, but I just got dinged for $17.50 a pump out in Lion's Head. Ouch! and Double OUCH! $1.95/ft without hydro.
A favorable comment in defense of some of these marinas, most of them would drive you to town or get and pay a taxi for you to encourage tourism in their town, this certainly was a nice, unexpected service.
I'd be remiss to tell you that we have been inundated with biting flies and aphids on the water for 3 of the past 4 days.

Bayfield
Port Elgin

Tobermory

Georgian Bay (Cabot Head )

Lion's Head


Tobermory (Che Che Maun in the background)

Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Erie Canal-Niagara River-Lake Erie - July 14-21

Back in Canada... returned July 16 and cleared Customs at Port Colborne... Back to bugs (aphid's, spiders and biting flies) and weeds in the water. Despite this... nice to be home.
Left North Tonawanda, the end of the Erie canal. The canal ends at the Niagara River... turn north and you end up over Niagara Falls, so south it was up the river. Current was running against us at 2 knots and increases to 6-8 as you approach Buffalo/Fort Erie. Current under the Peace Bridge  gets upwards of  35 knots, so no way were going that way. We exited the river and took the Black Rock canal, by-passing all this fast flowing  river.
While in Tonawanda, I neglected to say that we listened to an outdoor concert (free) featuring  the Chicago Authority, a  9 piece tribute band, complete with horns and they sang all the original Chicago songs from the late 70's and 80's. Forgot how good that band was (oops aging myself). The great thing about this, was that concert was on the side of the canal and over 60  boats cruised the river , rafted up and several hundred others sat on the river bank and in the surrounding parks. A great way to  spend one of our last nights in the  US
Well back to the Niagara River. We exited the Black Rock channel in Buffalo and entered  Lake Erie for the 300 plus mile journey upstream to Windsor/Detroit. The lake was kicking up when we entered it and we were fighting the current (2knots) and 3' waves. We had 19 miles to cross over to Port Colburn.
The boat,with the mast still over head on its supports took a pounding going up and down the waves. The waves would often splash up over the bow. I neglected to tighten up all the ropes, holding the mast in place and some loosened off more. The mast was moving , only a bit while in its supports, but I went up deck and re-secured everything. I noticed the forward truss  had split so I needed to lash it together. Fortunately once we got out of the effects of the water  going from the Lake down the Niagara, things settled down and the boat didn't pitch and roll  so bad.
We got to Port Colburn at 1:30pm and we had the mast stepped by 4pm. We were in our slip by 6:30 with sails up and the boat a sailboat again.
We had a slip for 2 days and the next day we had prearranged with Katie and Nadia to visit. They arrived the next day and we had a great relaxing visit. We had a picnic on the boat and watched a wakeboard competition that was taking place in the marina. The girls took us shopping and brought me some charts and books that I needed to go up Lake Erie and Huron. I left these behind as we did not anticipate returning to Barrie, via this route. Thanks girls.
Well, Lake Erie is 300 miles plus  long, with few anchorage.. so we are restricted to existing Ports. We will be facing prevailing SW winds (on the bow) and the current flows west to east. Being the shallowest of our great lakes, this lake can kick up some huge (square) waves. We've had a few days of this, running with SW winds , 20 knots and 3-5' waves. The boat handles this fine but it is a rough go when you are traveling 50 miles a day to make a port. We were usually able to put the main sail up, which helped stabilize the boat .
The water color is turquoise and reminded us of Florida. Another note about Lake Erie is that the main land is covered with power generating windmills, the shoreline is comprised mostly of bluffs , as in Scarborough Bluffs, and the water is covered with oil well heads that stick out of the water about 5', so you must be cautious in these areas.
I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you that we  got  caught in the severe T-Storm on Sunday which  Environment Canada announced from Windsor to Hamilton. We were in one of the few anchorage on the lake off of Long Point. We set the anchor and had an hour to watch and observe how it would hold. The storm/squall hit us and the anchor dragged. I hauled it up and again rode out the next 20-25 minutes riding the storm out. We saw it coming so we had our raingear on.  That makes number 4 we've been in . When it was finished we reset the anchor and were on a watch the rest of the night as more storms were anticipated. 
Well after 3 days of SW winds, we finally got a North West wind today, We sailed 75 miles in 15 -20 knot winds (beam reach) 6-7 knots an hour, with little waves. We made distance while we could and went from Port Stanley to Wheatley, where again we are trying to anchor for the night.

That's it for now, another 80 miles to the Detroit River. We are now about 400 miles from Midland.... getting close.
Medina, NY (Erie canal)

Tonawanda, NY

CHICOGO TRIBUTE BAND

Buffalo, NY

Katie & Nadia Port Colborne

Welland Canal bridge

Sunset  Sugar Loaf Marina Port Colborne

Lake Erie Windmills and Bluffs

Port Stanley Fisheries boat
Lashed mast support

Cracked mast support before lashed.
 

Monday, 13 July 2015

NY City to Erie Canal July 5-13

Presently 100 miles from Buffalo, on the Erie Canal. Overall a rather good journey.
We left NYC on the Sunday for the 150 mile trip up the Hudson. Had to contend with the tides, made great time in afternoons, but it was generally a slug fighting the falling tides in the mornings. The further you got north, the tide followed you, so you were either taking advantage of it or fighting it, longer. We stopped at Riverside in the Catskills to de-step our mast. Everything went as expected, except someone stole our mast supports which we had stored there in September. Guess they needed them more than me... go figure. Well we bought some new wood and 2 hours later we cut some new ones and the mast went down.
We left next morning after fueling up and headed to Waterford and start of the 360 mile trip across the Erie Canal to Buffalo, then across Lake Erie.
Again all was reasonably well... a bit of rain. We have 35 locks to go through, and need to be raised over 500 feet to get to Lake Erie.  Surprisingly we have had to deal with some heavy currents due to the heavy rains in June. In fact, about 20 miles of the canal was shut down June 10 - July 10 due to flooding. It opened about 2 days before we got to this section, but the flooded area was interesting to go through to say the least. Remember those "lucky Horseshoes" I mentioned earlier in my blog... well they are still in my back pocket.
With my mast down, I am about 10' above the water line. There are many bridges to go under and the maps chart the lowest clearance as being 15.5'.
One would think that I am have nothing to worry about.
Well, traveling 8 hours a day, on a rather routine, uncomplicated course I became complacent.
I was up deck cleaning some stainless. The Admiral was driving the boat. I happened to look up coming through a small town (Fairport, NY). I happened to look up to see a low lying bridge approaching. It was going to be tight. I told Jo to put the boat in hard reverse and gun it. She responded well but the boat turned sideways a bit. It was enough to avoid the red light that marks the centre of the bridge. With the boat on a bit of an angle slipping under the bridge with about 12" clearance, Jo navigated the boat under the bridge, without hitting anything, in particular without clipping off my wind speed transducer, the highest part of the boat... and incidentally about $500 to replace.... Boy were we lucky.
The Lock operators at the next lock, asked us if we had any damage to report. We said no, as we were close but didn't hit.
When reading the canal stat book after this, I realized this was a lift bridge and we should have requested the bridge operator to lift it to the 17' as the  book says. Boy we were lucky today.. a lesson to be learned, to stay alert and aware of everything.
The New York Canal system is a joy to operate in. They provide free dockage, shower facilities, welcoming committees Wi-Fi, and sometimes hydro and water. They know how to treat boaters. The lockmasters likewise treat you with respect and generally have locks ready for you and work with you when you are locking through.
Well getting close to entering Canada. We are meeting our girls on Saturday at Port Cobourne on the Welland Canal on Saturday, where we will put the mast back up. They will bring us our new set of charts for the Erie and Huron as we didn't anticipate returning this way when we left last August.  We should be in Georgian Bay in 3-4 weeks. Almost home...
That's all for now.
 

Light on the Hudson

Mast de-stepped
Bannerman's Arsenal on the Hudson

Waterford start of the Erie Canal

Herkimer NY
Flooding on the Canal


 

Spencerport NY

Dock at Spencerport
 
 
 


Sunday, 5 July 2015

Independence Day July 2-4 New York City

We pulled out of  the W79th Street Boat basin at 7:15 this morning after 2 busy days in NYC. We were fortunate to be here during their July 4 celebrations. We kept busy touring the Manhattan downtown , including Time's Square, the theatre district, Herald Square, Grant Park. We also spent the afternoon at Coney Island and took in the celebration there. We were there for the Nathan's Hotdog eating competition but couldn't get close enough to the stage. The subway ride was just over an hour, but worth it.
We also picked up a Yankee game on the Friday night. We were in the centre field bleachers but for $20 tickets we lived with it. We left after the 6th ... glad we did because it ends up going to the 12th inning and A-Rod brought the winner home. It was cap night so managed to pick up a couple of baseball hats.
A great weekend, huge crowds downtown and at Coney Island. Although about 5 miles from the min firework display (East River), we did manage to see them .
Manhattan


Central Staiion

Mrs Uncle Sam?

What happens in NY stays in NY... gotta a love it
Besides Jo posed with Morgan Freeman on the way down

Times Square
fireworks

Fireworks
Yankee Stadium

 
Tidal Current at W79th Street
Boardwalk Coney Island

Coney Island